Thursday, July 19, 2012
Every known variety of calla lily produces breathtakingly beautiful, showy, funnel-shape spathes, which are really colored outer leaves that encircle the spadix. The spadix, though small and difficult to see, is a tapering enclosure for the actual flowers. It is the prominent outer colored leaf structure that most think of when referring to calla blooms, which are supported by thick, strong, fleshy stems.
Although all callas are accented by rich green, long, sword- or arrow-shape leaves, many feature speckles or blotches of silver, white or cream, particularly the dwarf varieties.
The largest callas grow as tall as 7-8 feet, while dwarf specimens may be only 18 inches. No matter the size of the callas, all produce stunning, fleshy, waxy, long-lasting blooms, whether cut or allowed to remain on the plant to dramatize a garden setting.
Posted by Unknown at 8:41 AM
Thursday, May 3, 2012
|Crimson Star Clematis|
To begin with, they really do want a minimum of six full hours of sunshine every day. Without that, you'll find the number of blooms will decrease and the plant will not be as healthy. Full sun is excellent. If you grow them in the South, you'll find that a light shade will help the bloom colours from fading.
Having the right soil is critical if you want to succeed with Clematis. This plant adores a rich, organic soil that is heavily amended with compost. There is little point in putting this plant into clay soils as it will not thrive. Similarly, hot sandy soils will not allow the vine to grow to its full potential.
To plant, did a hole approximately two feet by two feet and approximately twelve inches deep. The soil from the hole should be amended with compost before backfilling the plant. I generally use one shovel of compost for every two shovels of original soil.
Carefully take the clematis out of its pot. Cut away fibre pots or slide the plant carefully out of plastic pots. The objective is to minimize root disturbance.
Put the root ball into the hole so the original soil line is approximately three to five inches below your garden soil line. This puts the bud down three to five inches.
If the plant is dormant and the buds are not swelling or showing green, you can backfill the hole to the original soil level.
However, if the plant has any active growth or bud swelling that will be covered over by backfilling to this garden soil depth, you can not cover active growth.
In the case of active growth, only backfill to the original pot soil line. This means you'll grow the clematis in a bit of a hollow for the summer but you'll finish backfilling to the garden's soil line in the fall after the plant has gone dormant.
Our objective is to get that bud down three to five inches but not to cover over growth that will rot or die if covered with soil.
Clematis come with a stake in the pot.
Do not remove this stake on newly planted clematis
Removing the stake can easily lead to the plant flopping about in the wind and breaking something you don't want broken. Remove the stake in the late fall as part of your garden cleanup (you do clean up your garden don't you?) :-)
Shallow Rooted Protection
Clematis are shallow-rooted vines and keeping those roots cool and evenly moist (protected from the hot sun's rays) is our gardening objective. The easiest way to do this is to mulch the plant. Add three to four inches of organic mulch (not rocks) around the base of the plant. Keep the mulch eight to twelve inches or so away from the base of the vines to avoid any rot and mouse damage. (mice sometimes hide in overwintering mulch and chew off tender bark for lunch) Organic mulch is used because as it decomposes, it provides nourishment for the clematis. Rocks do not decompose quickly enough to be of benefit to the plant. :-)
Do water at least weekly and do water deeply. Remember this plant likes even moisture so check under the mulch during the heat of the summer to ensure the soil is damp. Do not plant this vine where the ground is wet as winter wetness will rot it off.
These vines are heavy feeders. I like to use compost every spring with several shovels full being applied around the base of each plant. And when the new vines are two to three inches long, I'll usually give them a boost of fish food emulsion.
The nitrogen in the liquid emulsion really gets those vines growing. I note that feeding a high nitrogen chemical food (a little too much nitrogen) may stop blooming rather than enhance it because you'll grow huge vines at the expense of flower production.
Clematis is a vine so they do need some kind of support in most garden settings (I have grown them and simply let them wander around and over the perennials; it is an interesting thing to do).
You'll require trellis or arbors for support or even nearby shrubs. I once used a Beautybush as a support for a yellow-flowering C. tangutica and after three years you couldn't see the shrub (it had died because the clematis shaded it out).
Posted by Unknown at 7:41 AM
Tuesday, May 1, 2012
How can such a tiny flower give off such a tremendous scent? Tiny lily-of-the-valley sends up its lovely little sprays of bell-like white or pale pink flowers each spring. Allow it to spread a little (which it does, so much that it can be a problem) and it will perfume the whole area with its distinctive scent. It also makes adorable, tiny bouquets. It makes a good groundcover in small areas.
Lily-of-the-valley prefers shade and moist soil. In sunny or dry conditions, its leaves will brown. It can easily become invasive, so it's smart to put it in an area where it will be difficult to spread too far, such as a blocked in by a driveway or sidewalk
Lily of the valley needs to be in part sun and part shade. It grows about 6-12 in. high and 6-12 in. wide.
This plant can be used in containers,beds & borders, slopes, groundcover. These pretty little flowers have attractive foliage, they are fragrant, they deer resistant, and easy to grow.
Posted by Unknown at 11:35 AM
Tuesday, March 20, 2012
Friday, March 16, 2012
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Its started... The bulb blooming season, these little beauties called Crocus popped up like overnight!
Snow crocuses are aptly named, as they are the earliest of spring flowers. Crocus plants can be found bursting into bloom, while snow is still on the ground. These hardy flowers will begin to grow with a warm spell in late winter or early spring. If it snows again before they bloom, or during bloom, that's okay. They will be unharmed. It only takes a few days growth to blossom into the first bright colors of the year.
Did you know? The word "Crocus" is Latin for Saffron. Knowing this, it should not surprise you that Saffron comes from the stigma of the Saffron Crocus. But, it takes thousands of flowers to get an ounce of Saffron.
How to grow Crocus ...
Plant crocuses singly, or in groups. We do not recommend planting a large number of them close together, as they will rapidly multiply. In a year or two, that small group will become a major clump of attractive plants, regardless of how many you plant together. Fortunately, Crocus tolerates overcrowding.
Plant Crocus corms in the fall. Select a sunny location where the soil is not too wet or soggy over winter and during spring. Most importantly, select a spot where you can see them from a window of your house. You don't want to miss the first show of the year!
First work the soil, adding compost to provide a rich bed for growth. Mix into the soil a generous portion of bulb fertilizer. Plant corms singly, or in groups as desired. These small corms can be planted using a trowel, a bulb planter, or just pushing them into soft soil to the proper depth of about 2 inches from the top of the corm. Add a thin (not thick) layer of mulch on top if desired.
Posted by Unknown at 8:21 AM